Devon Howard riding a single-fin, 9’9” traditional “Involvement” style longboard shaped by Australia’s Thomas Bexon. This board is similar to what Aussie surfers were riding for a very brief time (matter of months) in Noosa Heads during 1966 before they abandoned this design and these type of lines for shorter boards and a tighter turning radius.
Known as Involvement surfing, pioneered by Nat Young, Bob McTavish, and a few others with design influences from George Greenough, Devon Howard and a few other modern-day longboarders have been revisiting this niche form of traditional surfing.
This edit was from two afternoon sessions amidst the epic run of clean, fun-size waves in SoCal during mid-December, 2017.
Camera: Log Rap, Garrett Seamans
Edit: Log Rap
Song: Mos Def – Auditorium